Back to Magazine

Forest Crops & Trade

The Chestnut Hills: How Korea's Autumn Nut Lost Its Biggest Buyer

Every autumn the hills around Gongju and Buyeo drop their burrs, and the nuts are sorted by size and sold to a co-op at a price the growers did not set. Behind every bag is a harvest about half what it was at the start of the century, orchards and growers that have aged together, and an export trade to Japan that has all but gone.

By Eli Navarro
8 min read

A spiky green burr split open on the ground, showing a glossy reddish-brown chestnut inside, among grass and fallen twigs
A ripe chestnut in its split burr. In Korea chestnuts are a forest product, counted in the Korea Forest Service's survey of forest products. · Credit: yihyejin, via Pixabay and Wikimedia Commons · Licence: CC0 1.0

On 23 September, chestnut growers gathered at the Sagok co-operative's buying station in Gongju to protest. The co-op's board had set this year's purchase prices: ₩3,300 for the top grade, ₩2,600 for large, ₩1,900 for medium and ₩800 for small. The top grade had fetched ₩4,200 a year earlier, so this was a 22 percent cut. The growers, from the Sagok chestnut growers' group, the Gongju branch of the Korea Chestnut Growers Association and the city's farmers' association, asked for last year's price and a say in setting it. The co-op, which buys the nuts outright, said it had followed the prices of the nearby Jeongan and Buyeo co-ops, Korea Agricultural Policy Newspaper reported.

Gongju is the centre of Korean chestnut country. It grew 8,380 tonnes in 2024, nearly a quarter of the national harvest of 37,010 tonnes by Ag Digest's arithmetic, with Buyeo at 6,655 and Cheongyang at 4,649.

The argument at the buying station is about more than one autumn. Korea grew about 72,000 tonnes of chestnuts in 2002, 43,220 in 2022 and 37,010 in 2024. In 1990 it sold almost all its exports to Japan; last year Japan bought 31 tonnes. By weight, Korea now buys about three times as many chestnuts from abroad as it sells. With the old buyer gone, a grower's income is decided after the nut falls: at the sorting table, on the co-op's price list and by the stock left over from last year.

With the old buyer gone, a grower's income is decided after the nut falls

The chestnut trade in four numbers

Harvest, 2002 and 2024
72,000 t → 37,010 t
About 72,000 tonnes in 2002 (KREI, 2004); 37,010 tonnes in the Korea Forest Service's 2024 survey (KREI, 2025-12-04).
Export value, 1994 and 2025
$134.8m → $8.6m
Fresh and dried chestnuts, in Korea's customs records as reported to UN Comtrade.
Japan's share of that value
97% → 4%
$131.1 million in 1994; $0.37 million in 2025, by Ag Digest's arithmetic from the same records.
Imports and exports, 2025
11,253 t in, 3,528 t out
Fresh, frozen and prepared chestnuts by weight; Ag Digest's sum of KREI's monthly trade tables (2026-10-02).

Sorted by size, priced by the co-op

Chestnuts are a forest crop in Korea. They grow in hillside orchards, are counted in the Korea Forest Service's survey of forest products, and in 2002 made up 35 percent of the country's forest-product exports, according to a 2004 study by the Korea Rural Economic Institute (KREI). Early varieties ripen from late August, mid-season ones in the second half of September and late ones into early October.

Once gathered, the nuts are sorted by size, and size is most of the price. At Sagok this year a top-grade chestnut was worth about four times a small one: ₩3,300 against ₩800. KREI's October outlook found that in most areas a larger share of this year's crop graded top or large than last year.

Who sets the price is the grievance. The co-op told the protesters that farmers had never taken part in setting it, that it could lose money because it buys the nuts outright, and that the market price forms first among co-ops near Jirisan in the south and then at Jeongan. It offered to raise its transport subsidy by ₩50 a kilogram.

Round green spiky burrs hanging among long, toothed leaves on a chestnut branch
Chestnut burrs ripening on the tree in late August. The photograph was taken in Fukushima, Japan, the country that once bought almost all of Korea's chestnut exports. · Credit: Σ64, via Wikimedia Commons · Licence: CC BY 4.0

Where Korea's chestnut exports went

Exports of fresh and dried chestnuts in Korea's own customs records as reported to the UN Comtrade database (HS 0802.40; from 2012, 0802.41 for chestnuts in the shell and 0802.42 for shelled). Frozen and prepared chestnuts are not included. The 2026 row is KREI's count, which does include them.

  1. 1988
    18,178 tonnes, 98 percent to Japan

    Japan takes 17,843 tonnes, by Ag Digest's arithmetic 98 percent of the volume.

  2. 1994
    Value peaks at $134.8 million

    Japan pays $131.1 million of it, 97 percent: the highest value in the records.

  3. 2002
    12,830 tonnes, $58.4 million

    Japan still pays 84 percent of the value. KREI's 2004 study calls chestnuts that year's largest single export item of Korean agriculture and forestry.

  4. 2004
    Japan buys 2,432 tonnes

    Down from 11,489 tonnes in 2001.

  5. 2005
    China becomes the main buyer

    13,230 of 15,857 tonnes go to China.

  6. 2014
    In-shell exports fall to 4,673 tonnes

    From 11,891 tonnes in 2013.

  7. 2025
    3,188 tonnes, $8.58 million

    China takes 2,868 tonnes in the shell and the United States 283; Japan buys 31 tonnes of shelled chestnuts, worth $0.37 million.

  8. 2026, January to September
    921 tonnes out, 8,412 tonnes in

    KREI's count, including frozen and prepared chestnuts: exports down 24.4 percent on a year earlier, imports up 11.7 percent.

The buyer who left

For a decade and more Japan was almost the whole market. In 1990 it took 17,091 of the 17,356 tonnes Korea exported. In 1994, the best year in the records, it paid $131.1 million of $134.8 million.

Then the trade went quickly. Japan bought 11,489 tonnes in 2001 and 2,432 in 2004. KREI's researchers listed the causes that year: exports of peeled chestnuts to Japan were shrinking, frozen chestnuts from China were coming into Korea, and China, Korea's competitor in the world market, had been growing its harvest fast since the mid-1990s and had just joined the World Trade Organization.

Korea kept exporting for a while, mostly to China: 13,230 of 15,857 tonnes in 2005. That trade has shrunk as well. Last year Korea exported 3,188 tonnes of fresh and dried chestnuts worth $8.58 million. China took 2,868 tonnes in the shell, the United States 283 and Japan 31 tonnes of shelled nuts.

Gongju is looking for new buyers. The city says it sold more than 140 tonnes to five countries last year, and that sales to the United States rose from 2.6 tonnes in 2024 to 25, helped by a roasted-chestnut festival in American supermarkets, Korea Agricultural Policy Newspaper reported in July.

Meanwhile chestnuts come in. KREI's monthly tables add up to 11,253 tonnes imported in 2025, most of them frozen or prepared, against 3,528 tonnes exported, by Ag Digest's sum. In the first nine months of this year Korea exported $1.94 million of chestnuts and imported $27.71 million. KREI expects imports to keep rising because domestic processors want more frozen and prepared chestnuts.

A broad old tree with a thick, divided trunk and yellowing autumn leaves stands on a slope beside a fenced path, with houses and wooded hills behind it
A chestnut tree in Ungyo-ri, Pyeongchang, protected as one of Korea's natural monuments, photographed for the national heritage agency in 2015. · Credit: Korea Heritage Service, via Wikimedia Commons · Licence: KOGL Type 1

Old trees, older growers

The orchards and the people who tend them have aged together. When KREI surveyed growers in 2003 it counted 25,729 of them, with an average age of 63; 67.7 percent were 60 or older. The average tree was 18 years old, the age at which, KREI noted, yields usually start to fall, although well-kept orchards can bear well past 35.

On these figures, chestnut country has also moved north. In 2003, 51.7 percent of growers were in South Gyeongsang and 24.1 percent in South Jeolla, against 19.3 percent in South Chungcheong, where the trees were younger. In the 2024 survey the Chungcheong region grew 23,360 tonnes and the Gyeongsang and Jeolla provinces 12,302.

In July the governor of South Chungcheong, Park Soo-hyun, told a provincial meeting that the trees themselves had aged, and named the other problems: soil acidified by years of herbicide and fertiliser, and farmers with few successors. The province is preparing an international chestnut industry expo and has passed a first review by the Ministry of Economy and Finance.

This autumn's price

This year's harvest is not obviously small. The growers at Sagok expected drought and heat to cut it, and a Gongju forestry official told the newspaper he expected a smaller crop. KREI's sample survey in mid-September found otherwise in the centre: early-variety yields up 5.7 percent in Gongju and 4.3 percent in Buyeo, and up 3.0 percent nationally, with only the southern counties down, by 4.1 percent. It expects mid- and late-season varieties to be up as well. For how heat is redrawing Korea's fruit map, see The Orchard Moves North.

Prices fell anyway. KREI puts it down to last year's crop, about 39,000 tonnes and 5.9 percent more than in 2024, which left more chestnuts in store as sales slowed. In September the average wholesale price of good-grade chestnuts at Seoul's Garak market was ₩5,061 a kilogram, 17.1 percent below a year earlier. In the south, KREI reports, some growers did not harvest at all because the purchase price was too low.

On our reading, both sides at Sagok are describing the same squeeze. A co-op that buys outright carries last year's unsold stock into this year's price; a grower who sells to it carries the cut. The buyer that once took the surplus is gone.

From the archive

At the buying station and in the provincial office

“The chestnut that falls this week will be priced by its size and by last year's stock, not by a buyer abroad.”
— The Ag Digest

Field note: what to watch this winter

  • 4 December. KREI's next chestnut outlook, with its first estimate of this year's harvest.
  • October and November exports. In 2025, 2,041 tonnes of fresh chestnuts left in October alone, more than in the other eleven months together.
  • The co-op price. The Sagok growers want a seat where the purchase price is set; the co-op says it follows Jeongan and Buyeo.
  • The expo. The governor wants it to win state support for replacing old trees, improving soil and training successors.

The question for the next decade is whether a crop that lost its export market can be priced by the people who grow it, or only by the stock in the store.

More from the Magazine